A little history of watches and a few advices for purchasing the perfect watch. Code 11.59 is a completely new family of watches from the storied Swiss brand, best known for its Royal Oak, an icon of modern watchmaking with its distinctive angular case, exposed screws and integrated bracelet. AP is calling Code 11.59 “the biggest launch since 1972”, the year the Royal Oak arrived: the plan was to make a splash with something contemporary and all-new that nods to its innovative past. Five years in the making and available in 13 references across six models with three new calibres, all Code 11.59 watches were launched simultaneously, a feat in itself. The self-winding chronograph version features a black lacquered dial, an 18k pink gold case and a double-curved sapphire crystal, something that plays with depth perception, a new design element for Code 11.59 that may yet become as iconic as the Royal Oak’s octagonal bezel.
Let’s move on to the under 1000 USD category. With its big cushion case, knobby bezel and simple dial, the SRP777 is a faithful homage to the original Seiko 6309 “Turtle” from the 1970s and ’80s. But unlike the Turtle, the new watch is water resistant up to 200 meters (the old one was only rated for 150) and has an automatic movement with hand-winding capabilities. It’s a fantastic option for those who want the look of a vintage diver, but the capabilities and reliability of a modern watch. Want a new mechanical chronograph under $500? The Seagull 1963 is pretty much your only option. That’s no concession, though. It uses a hand-wound mechanical movement made by Tianjin Seagull Watch Co. (one of China’s best movement manufacturers), housed in a compact and authentically sized 38mm stainless steel case. When Citizen launched its mind-blowingly thin (less than 3mm) Eco-Drive One in 2016, it captivated watch enthusiasts, but with a price tag over $2,000, it was steeply priced. At under $500, and with a still crazy-thin case thickness of 4.7mm, the Stiletto is a fantastic compromise, given its sleek proportions and classy guilloche dial. Of course, that solar-powered quartz movement is also a gem, making battery changes a thing of the past.
Based in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, Longines was founded in 1832 and its winged hourglass logo is the oldest registered trademark of any watch brand. The HydroConquest is as serious a diving watch as it sounds, water resistant to 1,000 feet, making it a reliable companion underwater. The steel band gives it heft and durability, and overall it’s designed to be the perfect combination of style and technical innovation complete with an automatic movement. No distinguished gentleman should be without a Movado watch. What other way to showcase your sub-luxury wealth and style than with this timeless chronograph model, which draws inspiration from the brand’s fashion-forward ‘50s collection? The Calendoplan is masterfully designed, from the luminous hands and markers to the black, blue, and gold colorway, which is eye-catching yet neutral enough to pair with most outfits.
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